Negotiating “Chineseness” in Global Fashion
When Chinese designers enter the global fashion system, who decides what counts as recognizably “Chinese”? This paper compares the work and reception of Zhaoyi Yu and Ao Yes, examining the gap between designers’ intentions and the identities assigned to them by media and audiences. Through discourse and visual analysis, I argue that “Chineseness” is not a fixed aesthetic category, but a negotiated label shaped by cultural expectation, global fashion institutions, and unequal power over interpretation.